What i have done is paint a thin layer of the suncure epoxy on the edges of my blade with NO prior surface prep.  That way you DO NOT get a good bond.  So damage and dings happen to the new layer of suncure and not your laminated paddle blade.  it does require occasional touchup, but its easy.

 

You can uses epoxy and prep the old surface but you will still eventually get wear and by sanding the existing laminate you are losing some materail albeit not much if done correctly.

 

 

 

 

ok-- here comes uncle jP to look at this topic from an entirely different angle....

 

 

Now I know this advice is of limited value, but hear me out, because the concept has merit:

 

1)Hit less rocks with your paddle when you paddle.

2) Eliminate the bahavior of throwing your paddle around on shore and treating it like an indestructible peice of gear (it isn't)--just be understanding that when you have to get out of your boat quickly, occassionally you will be required to inflict some abuse

3)Hit less rocks with your paddle when you paddle. just be understanding that when you have to bust a move to get back on your line, occassionally you will be required to inflict some abuse. Most paddlers are just sloppy about this. When you are on a familiar stretch of river feeling more bored than you'd like, practice paddling as far as possible without hitting any rocks with your paddle. Believe me this works, and it will make you a better paddler as well. More precise.

 

Having said that, creeking is inherently hard on paddles. No way around it. Part of the game. But unless you are doing some stout creeking, paddling with style and grace should greatly reduce wear and tear. You just have to care about your paddle and your technique.

 

Plenty of other people can tell you this or that about repair and maintainence. I'm here to provide the other perspective.

 

And not to be too hipocritical, but my paddle gets beat to hell also. To a large extent it can't be helped.

 

1- The rim rubber thing kida works, but I found that it increased blade flutter; it was a little annoying - you may not care.  And you can do the same thing with plastic tubing and an X-acto knife. 

 

2- Tried the duct tape thing too - it only lasts one or two river trips before it has to be re-applied.  Duct tape just doesn't have the durability to handle rocks.

 

3- I like the epoxy/surfboard repair option.  I haven't tried it, but it sounds like it would work.

 

4- One thing that worked well for me was going with a more durable paddle.  Fiberglass doesn't have the durability to handle rocks either.  I bought an AT3 and paddled it for five years before SW Airlines baggage handlers broke it.  I know, you can't hardly turn around without finding some dude who will swear AT paddles are the worst thing on the market.  I had a great experience - that paddle was awesome.  I think AT uses nylon on the edges or something.  The paddle was black and the edge had about a 1/2 inch of yellow weaved material.  After 5 years, I went through about half the yellow stuff in the high wear areas.  Awesome.

 

5- Ultimately, JP's got the best advice - take care of it and you can save replacement money.

 

6- Of course all this is moot if you're loaded like Dave; in that case, just buy new stuff and don't worry about it. 

 

Dan