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explwhore
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 Topic: The Elwha - Earn your Strokes Posted: 08 Mar 2010 at 8:53am |
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So Fish had been pestering me all week, "you should read the beta online. The hike isn't that steep, you can do it." I knew I was going to have to just man up and put the hurting on an 8.5 mile hike with all my self support gear on my back. Such are the things we do to explore whitewater that is new to us.
We made it on Friday night to the trail head and camped. Ian, Jp, Scott and I started hiking the next morning and took our time getting up to one of the nicest camp spots I have had in a while. After some noodle soup we were huddled around the fire, exhausted.
Sunday morning we launched at 9 am thinking about the possibility of new wood or changes in a very committing canyon with no way to escape. It is a very real prospect and with the way wood comes down on the Olympic Peninsula, you never know around each bend. Scott had run this in the Summer of 2006 so let the way down to Eskimo Pie.
Eskimo Pie was very stout looking, and had some serious pucker factor to it. With a large entry hole, a boily and grabby looking left wall directly after it, we all scouted for a while. JP decided to fire it up first aiming for the green tongue. From my vantage point it looked as if he got hit by a lateral wave coming from the left just at the lip stroking into the hole, subed out, and popped back up paddling hard. With an amazing looking forward/draw stroke and some hard placed forward "oh sh*t" paddling he got away from the meat. I fired it up then Ian and we progressed downstream.
As we picked our way down the canyon really provided some of the most unique and stunning scenery imaginable. The rock formations to the moss to the wood up high. Seriously, you are in there. As we hit the eddy above Nightmare we all looked at each other and Scott indicated "You all know the drill we are going to eddy hop down the left side and then run this rapid on the left." We all remembered from reading about this blind move, it was go time. For me this was the psychological crux of the run. Everyone had good lines down thankfully since we were the first group of the season to drop in.
Below nightmare a short distance we encountered a drop, small but in a canyon where you can not get back upstream at all. THIS DROP IS DANGEROUS AS HELL. It looks hard to see at the lip with a tree blocking the right half of the river. There are small canyon eddies on either side that are feeding downstream but not enough room for more than one boat per little wall eddy. You can hang out there while your professional stunt man or climber figure out how to get out of their boat on the most sketchy and sh*tty little perch/surging eddy you have ever seen.(You can see a picture of this rapid titled "David swam under this slab", at riverlog.blogspot.com). There is now wood creating a sieve on top and above the undercut.
JP was in the second to last eddy and watched Scott perform the impossible. He got out, of his boat in a very small and bizarre eddy with minimal holds. Put his paddle in his boat and got up on the rock somehow. We were able to make it through this section only because he did this I believe. If it was a lot higher you might be able to survive by charging left over a root ball pinch that is not boatable at the level we did it at( maybe 800ish I was told). As I said on the right a tree comes out that creates a wood sieve. Directly after the wood there is a slab rock below that is undercut as well. It worked out that we lined our boats into the sieve spot and pulled em up and over on the right side. We took some time to carefully portage this and I am not sure I will go back until I hear about a better way to make this move. We should have in retrospect left a throw bag tied to an anchor with a beaner leading down to the sketchy eddy to help others. I was too focused on our group to think of that at the time.
We progressed downstream quickly portaging a scary looking Dagger rapid and picking our way down classic whitewater. Just amazing boulder garden after boulder garden. The lunch breaks and water breaks helped.
Most of Rica Canyon is a jumble to me, just a lot of boat scouting and fun. Except Ian had a nasty wood incident with a huge wall on river right and left marking the entrance to the canyon. There is wood on the left wall. Eddy out left and make a scary ferry above some nasty wood. Ian hit it sideways and his paddle got stuck, for a moment and he let go of it. It was wedged vertically with everyone else downstream in the canyon. As we were pondering how to get it out it flushed, I was relieved. We did have a breakdown just in case though.
We portaged the entrance to Goblin's Gate too just to be on the safe
side. It ended up we boat scouted landslide not to realize we passed it until we hit the lake. Guess we were in the groove and the leader found the line. It was an amazing trip and I am going to stop here to keep it brief as possible. The whitewater is committing and the canyon is gorgeous. But be very aware of the sketchy nature of this one portage I talk about above. I may not go back in until a rope is set there or some other factor clinches the deal that no member of my group has to attempt a stunt like Scott did there. It was dangerous as hell and was our only option. What an fantastic canyon though...
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tiziak
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 Posted: 08 Mar 2010 at 9:25am |
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Mad prop's gentlemen.
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If you don't know where you are going, any road will get you there.
Daniel Patrinellis
360.434.4616
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PowWrangler
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 Posted: 08 Mar 2010 at 9:29am |
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I'm sure that was quite an adventure, thanks for sharing. Any pics taken?
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Fish
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 Posted: 08 Mar 2010 at 10:01am |
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We boat scouted a lot, so a few pics were taken, but nothing great. Nick's HD video got condensation in it and wouldnt work. It's a bummer too, one of the most beautiful places a person will pass through.
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water wacko
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 Posted: 08 Mar 2010 at 10:55am |
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Sounds epic.
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jP
Rio Banditos
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 Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 12:00am |
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Cool summary of the trip, Nick. Yup. Not going to get all verbose on yall however signature it may be of me to do so, for the esteemed exploring whore has summed it up. I guess I'll wax on a little about the portage though...
Yes, as Nick stated: Scott's move getting out of his boat and onto rock was nothing short of Heroic. He made it happen one finger hold at a time, at one point his paddle looked as if the current could easily snatch it, and he was using his third hand to hold onto his boat-- that's right: his third hand. Those of you who've had to do it know I'm referring to his foot. He had it in his cockpit to maintain his hold on his boat. At first, from upstream I thought that as difficult as it looked, that I could do just as well. But when Scott motioned me down and I got into that little micro eddy (smaller than what most kayakers call "micro eddies, BTW"-more like a "nano eddy"), I realized just what he had to work with. Ask him: I was nearly in panic, hell maybe there was no nearly about it. The Eddy had one of those boily high points you had to precariously sit on to avoid rapidly jamming into the top corner of the eddy, which was basicly a surprisingly grabby hole. Just knowing that downstream is ugliness-- no place to flip or lose control in the slightest way. Once Scott had a rope on me it got better, and then two of us could help Ian and Nick. But damn that portage took forever for such a short distance. Lot's of ropework involved. But someone had to take that first step. Fish, You are da man!
But yeah- the trip was really good. This one's been eluding me for sometime, so it was nice to finally get in there. Really, I think Korb's suggestion to make a few days of it is spot on. A little more food is all it would take to spend another night in there!
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🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋🐋
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Old Fart
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 Posted: 09 Mar 2010 at 7:59am |
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Nice work boyz...very cool that you got that one done, I'm trying to think of a costume for a new super-hero "SPIDERFISH"
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huckin harms
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 Posted: 10 Mar 2010 at 5:22pm |
sweet tr/update... I was thinking of you guys that saturday, wondering if maybe... but then Rob said "nah, too cold...blah blah blah" and so thought maybe it didn't go down... but I was wrong. nice of you to share, thanks for that.
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water wacko
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 Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 7:01am |
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TOO COLD!?!?! That doesn't sound like Rob unless it's about 15 and he's thinking about some down time in Lunch Hole.
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James
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 Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 9:27am |
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Awesome write up Nick, consider tossing that into a Formal TR tied to the Run, very good detail to have filed away for future explorers and paddlers seeking the Elwha. Glad you guys had such a good trip!
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fiddleyak
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 Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 10:36am |
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Awesome trip report, it's always cool to hear about groups making it through difficult spots. I wish I could have gone with you guys.
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fiddleyak
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 Posted: 11 Mar 2010 at 10:39am |
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Oh yeah, Brett haven't you noticed the old man always gets his gear on in the car with the heater on? And until last year he wouldn't even consider a hike-in run! Still, Rob's definitely one of the most motivated paddlers out here, dunno why he missed out on the Elwha trip. We were saying that 800 was low, but it sounds like that was the right flow for the trip. Can't wait to check this section out.
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water wacko
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 Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 7:28am |
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I wonder if one could hike in to that spot.
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jP
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 Posted: 12 Mar 2010 at 4:30pm |
Originally posted by Old Fart
Nice work boyz...very cool that you got that one done,
I'm trying to think of a costume for a new super-hero
"SPIDERFISH"
HA HA!!! I'm just now on the verge of naming that spot in the database:
I was thinking of calling it "Scott's Scramble" but "Spiderfish" might be even better- I think it's for our crew to decide.
Originally posted by water wacko
I wonder if one could hike in to that spot. No. Nor should you if you could. But why would you want to? The whole point of runs like that is to venture into a liquified crack in the earth-to venture into the unknown. You hike in with the boat, suit up, and paddle in there. Simple. Elegant. Even if potentially perilous or problematic. There are hundereds of whitewater runs in our beautiful cascade paradise. You run different runs for different reasons. This is one of those runs you do specificaly to confront the unknown. Truth be told, while Fish was the one to cowboy up and "do the Spiderfish", and while he did what he thought best at the time ( based on my view from just upstream I also concluded that was the "Last Chance" eddy), there is at least one other option. Maybe two. Of course, they are merely sketchy in other ways, and potentially just as hazardous. But one or the other may be MARGINALLY better, depending on flows. Next time I go in there I sure as hell want to be armed with the most updated gauge reading I can get, and know what the weather is doing!!!
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