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Mr.Grinch
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  Quote Mr.Grinch Replybullet Topic: The "perfect" boat
    Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 9:07pm
Ok, surfers who really get into it eventually either order a board from a shaper, or purchase one at a shop that exactly (or so close it doesn't matter) matches the specs they're looking for.

My dad has been involved in car racing since before he could legally race (it was easier back then), but most race teams aim to build a driver/almost empty fuel cell/race car package that under cuts the minimum weight rating for their class of car so that they have to add a few pounds of ballast, and get to choose where it goes.

These two ideas, though I may not know all that much about boats, make me consider our selections when we think of our intentions, expectations, and available options when we seek new boats for our quiver. Obviously, shaping and glassing a board is easier than rotomolding a boat, well, ones worth utilizing, anyway. That and we do get to trim boats by placing our weight via seat and bulkhead placement, but I still wonder.......

I've done what many of us have and padded up he seat for more leverage, but wonder if perhaps that isn't the best. Of course, playboats are looking for pop vs. weight, so sticking a weight under the seat might not be the answer.

I dunno, I'm bored and just musing about how to best deal with limits in weight ranges of boats vs. getting exactly what one wants in surfboards.

After all, punching holes has as much to do with staying in contact with the through flowing water as it does momentum, so is weight always a bad thing? On the other hand, there is acceleration and disengagement that is hampered by weight, yes?



Any use for this discussion or embellishments?
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water wacko
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  Quote water wacko Replybullet Posted: 16 Jan 2012 at 9:34pm
If you want to reduce seat weight. Take the entire seat out (as long as the backband isn't attached to it) and replace it with a piece of foam. Carve to perfection.
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Jed Hawkes
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  Quote Jed Hawkes Replybullet Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 1:31pm
It sounds cray but you could make your own boat out of fiberglass. Essentially you make a foam plug and add as many fiberglass, carbon, or kevlar layers. But then you get into the issue of the physics of boat building and what goes into building a high performance playboat, but if you really want a boat that's made for you, your best bet is to make one for you.

Ultimately our biggest issue as participants in a fringe sport is boat manufacturers lack the resources and diversity of client base to build boats to fit all different types. Listen to this podcast and they spend quite a bit of time addressing the issues that go into building boats for the small market that is whitewater kayaks.

http://inbetweenswims.libsyn.com/webpage/the-future-of-boat-design-mp3

the future of playboats are in old technology like fiberglass and building to suit not a mass rotomolding process.

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  Quote Mr.Grinch Replybullet Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 2:42pm
That was an awesome link, Jed! Thanks!



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  Quote BIGWATER Replybullet Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 3:21pm
some people do make there own boats .... Gary Korb makes his own surf kayaks from foam and fiberglass and i think he even has a vidio about it
i ran into him one time at the moshpit and he had 3 home made boats there ... he was filming them on the wave to look at how they surfed .... he called the moshpit the white water wind tunnel...  perfect place to analize and refine the lines of the boat
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  Quote James Replybullet Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 9:05am
Indeed they do check this ... I would love to see how it turned out


   
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  Quote GHannam Replybullet Posted: 20 Jan 2012 at 10:24am
OK, I'll chime in: While I may not be motivated to build my own boat, I have to say that I struggle with the weight issue as well. I tend to fall in the "in-between" range that is recommended for nearly every boat out there. I wish that one of the companies would pick up on this issue and start making a line of boats that are designed for the "in-between-ers" weight range. I swear whomever took that route could make a niche for themselves and make a killing doing it; I know I'm not the only one out there who has this issue.

Then again, I've found ways to make it work so maybe it's really just an annoyance vs. an issue??

Interesting info on building your own boat though!
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Mr.Grinch
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  Quote Mr.Grinch Replybullet Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 9:38pm
The fiberglass/Kevlar/whatever handmade and etc. sounds good, but I wonder something: plastic has a nice attribute that is quite useful- it slides on rocks, even abrasive ones, better than most other boat materials we've been using. This is especially useful on the bottoms of the hulls, bit side walls and sometimes decks see a little benefit from this, too. My experience with fiberglass is that it sticks, not like glue, but moreso than plastic. Less than aluminum, for sure. So, as a woodworker, we've found ways to bend wood with heat (and moisture, but plastic probably doesn't need that). I think it is really cool that personally scaled boat shapes can/will provide greater personalization, but wonder if it would be worthwhile for those with the ability to exploit softening flat sheets of plastic onto parts of the boat where this property would best be put to use. In playboats, the bottom of the hull, plus areas of the bow and stern could benefit, while other situations may want more or less in other areas as well. Obviously, a pure park and play boat might forego any of that, but one that may see lite booting, rock splats, and the wave wheel in an unintentionally too shallow spot may benefit, yes? Creekers could also have uses for plastic overlays, yes?

I may be overthinking this, but better than not thinking?

Also, while I can understand wanting playboats to be as light as possible, is there merit to a certain level of weight to creekers for the sake of momentum?
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  Quote Mr.Grinch Replybullet Posted: 21 Jan 2012 at 9:43pm
.....lite boofing, not booting.

Nobody kicks their boat. Nah.
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  Quote jP Replybullet Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 11:46pm
Originally posted by Mr.Grinch

while I can understand wanting playboats to be as light as possible, is there merit to a certain level of weight to creekers for the sake of momentum?


Not really. The general idea is that you want as light a boat as possible so long as its strong enough. There are no merits to a heavier boat other than durability. A heavier boat is simply more weight to push around with your paddle.

Great topic though- and I've seen people graft plastic onto boats to alter the design a bit. Its often rather crude though. Some peeps have done a remarkable job welding plastic also. Generally these don't hold up so well over time, but it depends on the craftsmanship.

Fiberglass is the place to start. But not many embark on fiberglass boat building because it requires at least a three boat commitment just to produce something you'll want to paddle. And that's just the construction- then there's the boat design and the knowledge of kayaks and kayaking required to direct one's endeavors.

That said, composite boats are stronger than people think. And two and a half decades of plastic boats have bred lazy paddlers who can't concieve of the idea of avoiding rocks. Most modern paddlers run stuff way low because it requires less skill and plastic boats allow it.

Boating fiberglass forces you to think differently about how you paddle, and generally makes you a more skilled, precise, perceptive paddler simply because you have a vested interest in protecting your boat. Then you can still selectively hammer the sh*t out of it with skill in a way that usually leaves it in tact.

I never ran the N. Frk Payette in anything but plastic, but my brother boated it in his "beater" boat. A fiberglass C-1 he'd bust out for such runs to spare his nicer, newer boat. He also chose to run it when it was higher.

Another thing about glass boats that is really cool is when you boof them they really fly because they are so light. I spent the first 10-12 years of my boating career in fiberglass.

I think a fiberglass playboat would be the bombdiggity.

For custom boat designs, its the only way to go, for better or worse.

I like the account of Bigwater's "Korb sighting"!

Anyway, good topic.
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  Quote Mr.Grinch Replybullet Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 6:54pm
jP, I've seen (and done) extra fiberglass and resin added to surfboard shapes to provide more edge, less edge (because sanding away exposes the foam core), and such. I hardened up a few edges on my surfboards, adding fiberglass strands and resin to extend the hard edge in the tail farther up the rail. Less forgiving of mush rail application, but lots more control when driven continuously, and correctly (instead of bogging, the rail would catch and drive off if not lead correctly).

Water Wacko, I hadn't realized the merit of reducing outfitting weight as a way to alter the intended weight rating. I assume it is time consuming at first, but one gets a handle on it depending on skills and can quickly shave a few pounds. That said, outfitting varies in weight, and how much can the weight rating be extended? I had a Necky Crux that certainly benifited from having the damned springs removed.

jP, I respect that a heavy boat is more to muscle around, and I know I don't know everything, but does momentum count for something when punching holes? I respect it may be a hinderance to boofing, though. I don't know.

Any thoughts on techniques of applying poly sheets to hulls? Seems like with a large enough oven, a sheet could be heated just to the flexible point, and quickly applied to the bottom of a custom, volume optimized, and some parameters adjusted design to provide a light, stiff, durable hull that is tailored to the customer.
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  Quote water wacko Replybullet Posted: 19 Feb 2012 at 7:20pm
Grinch, another trick I've seen is to take a hair dryer (or heat gun if you're reeel careful) and a small bottle jack and "modify" the boat you have. 10-15 years ago the trend with playboats was to go smaller and I don't blame them, Redlines and Frankensteins were a bitch to throwndown compared to the modern shrinky-dink playboats coming out these days. Times are changin' again and now the trend is bigger. Bigger boats, bigger river levels, bigger drops for that matter. Creek boats are pretty light these days, I wouldn't mind a little more plastic on the bottom of mine (for longevity), but for every other purpose, especially hiking in, I'll take the lightest one I can get away with. As a matter of fact, the stout-masters back in the day used to bring their oldest boats in to the gnarliest multi-day first D's cuz they knew they were gonna spend way more time with the boat on the shoulder than on their butt. That is an extreme view, but I see the application. Overall, light weight and BIG is what I want in a creeker. Really, the same thing is true for my playboats, too. I've been thinking of making a carbon one-off playboat. The complex edges have kept that desire at bay for the time being.
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." ~Howard Thurman
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  Quote Mr.Grinch Replybullet Posted: 25 Feb 2012 at 3:04pm
Ok, so a question about Pyranha sizing:
It seems to me that the boat designs are generally progressive in their size differences within one model line, but not the Molan.

I wonder about this because it seems to put certain weight ranges in or near the situation of being almost too heavy for the medium, and quite light for the large a bit ofthe time.

I see that with the Molan series, the differences between S, M, and L aren't the same dimensional increases, and this makes me wonder the design reasoning. Other boats aren't as different, and other manufacturers seem to play the sliding weight scale better, or am I missing something?

Edited by Mr.Grinch - 25 Feb 2012 at 3:09pm
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